Influenza in Cats: Symptoms, Causes & Treatment Guide

Cats with respiratory illness may sneeze, develop runny eyes or nose, lose interest in food and become quieter than usual. People often call this cat flu or influenza, but several different infections can cause similar signs, so a diagnosis cannot be made from symptoms alone.

If your cat is struggling to breathe, collapsed, very weak, unable to keep food or water down, or has not eaten, call Keysborough Veterinary Practice on (03) 9798 7274 during opening hours. Keep your cat separate from other cats while you arrange advice.

What does cat influenza look like?

Common signs of an upper respiratory infection can include:

  • sneezing
  • blocked or runny nose
  • watery or sticky eye discharge
  • sore mouth or drooling
  • reduced appetite
  • fever or tiredness
  • coughing in some cases

Kittens, older cats and cats with other health problems may become unwell more quickly. A cat that is not eating, is dehydrated or has breathing difficulty needs prompt veterinary assessment rather than home observation alone.

What causes influenza-like illness in cats?

Several infectious agents can cause respiratory signs in cats. Feline herpesvirus and feline calicivirus are common causes of feline upper respiratory disease, but other infections and non-infectious problems can look similar.

A cat can carry an infection without showing obvious signs and may spread it through saliva, nasal discharge, eye discharge, sneezing or contaminated bowls and bedding. The exact cause affects the advice, so do not assume that a human cold medicine or leftover antibiotic will help.

Is cat flu contagious?

Many feline respiratory infections spread readily between cats. Keep an unwell cat in a separate room where possible, use separate food and water bowls, wash your hands after handling them and clean surfaces as advised by your vet. Our vaccination and wellness service can help you discuss prevention for the other cats in your household.

Avoid introducing a new cat to a household while another cat is unwell. Tell the clinic about other cats before arrival so the team can reduce contact in the waiting area.

What can you do at home?

Offer fresh water and small, palatable meals. Gently wipe discharge from the eyes or nose with a clean, damp pad, using a separate area of the pad for each eye. Keep your cat warm, quiet and away from smoke or strong fragrances.

Do not give human cold medicines, painkillers or decongestants unless a vet has specifically prescribed them for your cat. Some medicines that are safe for people can be dangerous to cats.

When should you call a vet?

Call us during opening hours if your cat is not improving, has reduced appetite, develops mouth ulcers, has thick discharge, seems painful, or is at higher risk because of age or another illness. The sooner a vet examines a cat that is deteriorating, the sooner supportive care can be considered.

Seek urgent advice for open-mouth breathing, obvious effort to breathe, blue or pale gums, collapse, severe weakness, repeated vomiting or a cat that cannot drink. Keysborough Veterinary Practice provides daytime urgent pet care during opening hours and is not staffed overnight.

How is influenza-like illness treated?

Treatment depends on the examination and suspected cause. A vet may recommend supportive care, fluids, medication for pain or inflammation, help with nutrition, eye treatment or further tests. Antibiotics do not treat viruses, although a vet may prescribe them when a secondary bacterial problem is suspected.

Some cats need closer monitoring than others. In-house X-ray, ultrasound and pathology are available at the clinic when the vet considers them appropriate, but not every cat needs every test.

Can vaccination prevent cat flu?

Routine cat vaccinations help reduce the risk and severity of several important feline infections, but they do not prevent every cause of sneezing or eye discharge. Vaccination status, age, health and exposure to other cats all matter.

Ask our team which vaccination schedule suits your cat. Keep new cats separate until their health and vaccination history have been assessed, especially in a multi-cat household.

 

Call our Keysborough clinic

Call Keysborough Veterinary Practice on (03) 9798 7274 if your cat is unwell. We are an independent, owner-operated clinic on Chapel Rd, Keysborough, providing daytime care during opening hours. For routine vaccination planning, use our vaccination and wellness information.

Frequently asked questions

1. Can cats catch human influenza?

Respiratory illness in cats can have several causes. Do not assume a cat has caught a human flu infection or that human flu medicine is safe. Call a vet for advice about the actual signs.

2. How long does cat flu last?

The duration varies with the cause, the cat’s age, vaccination status and general health. A cat that is worsening or not eating needs assessment rather than a fixed wait period.

3. Should I isolate a cat with respiratory signs?

It is sensible to separate an unwell cat from other cats while you seek advice. Use separate bowls and bedding and wash your hands after handling the cat.

4. Can kittens get more seriously unwell?

Kittens may be more vulnerable to dehydration, reduced eating and complications. Contact a vet promptly if a kitten shows respiratory signs or stops eating.

5. Can I use human cold medicine for my cat?

Don’t give any medicine unless a vet has specifically advised it for your cat. Human medicines can be toxic to cats.

Blood in Cat Vomit: Causes and Emergency Warning Signs

If your cat is vomiting blood, call a veterinary clinic now for triage. Fresh blood may look red or streaked through vomit. Digested blood can look dark brown or black, sometimes compared with coffee grounds. Either appearance deserves prompt veterinary advice because the source and severity cannot be judged reliably at home.

If your cat is weak, collapsed, struggling to breathe, has pale gums, a painful or swollen abdomen, repeated vomiting, a possible toxin exposure or more than a small streak of blood, seek emergency veterinary care immediately. During opening hours, call Keysborough Veterinary Practice on (03) 9798 7274 before travelling. The clinic is not staffed overnight, so a critically unwell cat after hours needs an open 24-hour veterinary hospital.

This article explains what blood in cat vomit can mean, what information to collect and what a vet may need to check. It cannot diagnose your cat.

What can blood in cat vomit look like?

Veterinarians use the term haematemesis for vomiting blood. The appearance can vary:

  • bright red streaks or spots
  • red fluid mixed with food or mucus
  • small clots
  • dark brown or black granular material
  • vomit that resembles wet coffee grounds

Bright red blood may be relatively fresh. Dark material can indicate blood that has been exposed to stomach acid. Colour alone cannot identify the cause or tell you that the problem is minor.

Take a clear photograph before cleaning the area. If practical and safe, a small sample in a sealed container may help the veterinary team. Note the time, number of episodes and whether the material contained food, hair, plants, string or another object.

Do not delay care while trying to obtain a perfect sample. Your cat’s condition matters more than the photograph.

Is it definitely vomited blood?

Not every red or dark mark has come from the stomach. A cat may swallow blood from the mouth or nose and later vomit it. Red food or foreign material can also change the appearance.

Try to observe what happened immediately beforehand. Vomiting commonly involves nausea, abdominal contractions and retching. Regurgitation tends to be more passive and may bring up undigested food. Coughing involves the airway and can sometimes end with gagging or fluid.

Do not put your fingers into an alert cat’s mouth to search for an injury or object. A frightened or painful cat can bite, and pulling a visible string can cause internal injury. Tell the clinic what you saw and let the veterinary team examine the mouth safely.

Why might a cat vomit blood?

Blood can enter vomit for several reasons. Some are local to the mouth, oesophagus or stomach. Others involve disease elsewhere in the body. A veterinary examination and, in some cases, diagnostic tests are needed to separate them.

Irritation after repeated vomiting

Forceful or repeated vomiting can irritate tissue in the upper digestive tract and produce a small amount of fresh blood. Even if the blood appeared only after several episodes, the reason for the original vomiting still needs attention.

Repeated vomiting can also lead to dehydration and electrolyte changes. A cat that cannot keep water down, becomes quiet or continues to retch should not be monitored indefinitely at home.

Mouth, dental or nasal bleeding

Blood from an oral injury, dental disease or nosebleed may be swallowed. The cat can then vomit material containing blood, even though the initial source is not the stomach.

Look without forcing the mouth open for obvious external facial injury or active nasal bleeding. Do not attempt a detailed oral examination yourself.

Inflammation or ulceration

Inflammation or ulceration in the oesophagus or stomach can bleed. Veterinary references note that gastrointestinal ulceration may also be associated with reduced appetite, abdominal pain, vomiting and weight loss, although signs can be nonspecific.

Ulceration is not something an owner can confirm from colour. Other conditions can produce a similar appearance, so treatment should follow diagnosis rather than assumptions.

A swallowed object

String, ribbon, thread, bones, toys and other objects can irritate, obstruct or damage the digestive tract. Cats may hide the initial event, and an owner may only notice vomiting, reduced appetite or discomfort.

Visible string from the mouth or anus should not be pulled. Contact a vet promptly. An obstruction can become serious and may require imaging or surgery.

Toxins or unsuitable medicines

Some toxins can cause irritation, organ injury or abnormal bleeding. Human medicines can also be dangerous to cats, including products that owners may consider ordinary pain relief.

If exposure is possible, bring the package or photograph the label. Record the amount, time and route if known. Do not induce vomiting or give food, milk, oil, charcoal or medication unless a veterinarian specifically instructs you.

A problem with blood clotting

Bleeding can occur when clotting is impaired. Possible contexts include certain toxins, severe illness, liver problems, low platelets or other disorders. You may also notice bruising, nosebleeds, pale gums or bleeding elsewhere, but the absence of these signs does not rule the problem out.

Suspected abnormal bleeding needs urgent assessment because the visible vomit may represent only part of the problem.

Disease affecting other organs

Kidney, liver, pancreatic, inflammatory, infectious and other systemic diseases can be associated with vomiting. Some may also contribute to irritation or bleeding. Older cats and cats with known illnesses may have less reserve when vomiting begins.

The list of possibilities is broad, which is why internet symptom matching is unsafe here. The vet uses the history, examination and tests to narrow it.

Masses or other gastrointestinal disease

Growths and other diseases within the digestive tract can cause vomiting, reduced appetite, weight loss or bleeding. These are not the only explanations and should not be assumed from one episode, but persistent or recurrent signs need investigation.

When is cat vomiting blood an emergency?

Treat the situation as an emergency if your cat has any of the following:

  • collapse, marked weakness or inability to stand
  • pale, white, grey or blue-tinged gums
  • difficulty breathing or open-mouth breathing
  • Repeated vomiting or inability to keep water down
  • a large amount of blood or ongoing bleeding
  • dark, tar-like stool
  • a swollen, tense or painful abdomen
  • suspected poisoning or access to human medicine
  • possible string, ribbon, bone or foreign-object ingestion
  • recent trauma
  • severe pain, distress or unusual unresponsiveness
  • a kitten, an elderly cat or a cat with a significant existing illness that is deteriorating

If you are unsure, call. Veterinary staff can ask triage questions and direct you to the appropriate level of care. Keysi Vet provides urgent pet care during published opening hours and advises owners to phone before arriving.

What should you do before leaving for the vet?

Keep the steps simple and safe.

  1. Call the clinic and describe the blood, vomiting frequency and your cat’s current behaviour.
  2. Follow the veterinary team’s transport and first-aid instructions.
  3. Keep your cat quiet and place them in a secure carrier with a towel.
  4. Bring photographs or a sample if easily available.
  5. Bring medicine, toxin or plant packaging if exposure is possible.
  6. List current medicines and known health conditions.
  7. Note the last time your cat ate, drank, urinated and passed stool.

Do not force food or water into a nauseated cat. Do not give human medicine. Do not attempt to make the cat vomit. Do not pull a string or another object from the mouth.

What information will the vet need?

The history helps direct the examination. Be ready to explain:

  • When vomiting began
  • How many episodes occurred
  • whether blood appeared in the first episode or after repeated retching
  • the colour and approximate amount
  • appetite and water intake
  • urine and stool changes
  • recent weight loss or previous vomiting
  • access to bins, plants, string, toys, chemicals or medicines
  • current prescriptions and supplements
  • recent injuries, procedures or travel
  • existing kidney, liver, digestive or clotting conditions

Do not worry if you cannot answer everything. A short video of the event can be useful if it can be taken without delaying care or distressing the cat.

How might a vet investigate blood in a cat’s vomit?

The veterinary team first assesses stability. This may include gum colour, heart and breathing rate, hydration, temperature, pain and abdominal findings. A severely unwell cat may need stabilisation while the cause is investigated.

Depending on the history and examination, recommendations may include:

  • blood tests to assess red cells, platelets, organ function and other changes
  • urine testing
  • clotting tests
  • X-rays to look for some foreign objects, obstruction patterns or other abnormalities
  • ultrasound to examine abdominal organs and the digestive tract
  • further imaging, endoscopy, referral or surgery where indicated

Not every cat needs every test. Keysi Vet’s veterinary pathology facilities include in-house urgent bloodwork, and its urgent-care facilities include X-ray and FAST ultrasound capability. The veterinarian will recommend tests based on your cat’s condition.

How is vomiting blood treated?

Treatment depends on the cause and severity. It may involve fluid support, medicines to control nausea, gastrointestinal protection, treatment of toxin exposure, management of an underlying disease or removal of a foreign object. A cat with significant blood loss or clotting problems may require more intensive care.

There is no single home remedy for haematemesis. Products that appear to settle a stomach may be unsuitable for cats or may delay treatment. Follow the treating veterinarian’s instructions, including feeding, medication, and recheck advice.

Could a hairball cause a small streak of blood?

Repeated retching around a hairball may irritate tissue and be followed by a small streak, but owners should not assume a hairball explains blood. The cat may be vomiting for another reason, and coughing is often mistaken for hairball retching.

Blood, repeated unproductive retching, poor appetite, lethargy or ongoing vomiting warrants veterinary advice. A blockage from accumulated hair is uncommon but can be serious.

How can future episodes be reduced?

Prevention depends on the diagnosis. General steps include keeping medicines and toxic products inaccessible, removing loose strings and ribbon, using secure bins and following veterinary advice for any chronic condition.

Regular grooming may reduce swallowed loose hair in cats prone to hairballs. It will not prevent vomiting caused by disease, toxins or foreign objects.

Keep a record if vomiting recurs. Dates, photographs, food changes, appetite and weight can help a veterinarian see a pattern that is difficult to reconstruct later.

Call a vet if you see blood in your cat’s vomit

Blood in vomit is not a symptom to diagnose from a photograph alone. Call for triage even if your cat currently appears comfortable, and seek immediate care when any emergency warning sign is present.

Keysborough Veterinary Practice is an independent clinic at 4-8 Chapel Rd, Keysborough and has served the area since 1988. During opening hours, call (03) 9798 7274 before travelling for an urgent case. If the clinic is closed and your cat is critically unwell, contact an open 24-hour veterinary hospital.

Frequently asked questions

Is a tiny streak of blood in a cat’s vomit an emergency?

It still needs prompt veterinary advice. A small streak can follow irritation, but the appearance does not identify the cause. Seek immediate care if vomiting repeats, your cat is weak or painful, gums are pale, a toxin or foreign object is possible, or more blood appears.

What does digested blood in a cat’s vomit look like?

It may appear dark brown or black and granular, sometimes described as resembling coffee grounds. Food and other material can look similar, so take a photograph and let a veterinarian assess the full situation.

Should I feed my cat after they vomit blood?

Call a veterinary clinic first and follow its instructions. Do not force food or water, and do not give human medicine. Feeding advice depends on your cat’s condition and the suspected cause.

Can I wait until morning if my cat seems normal?

Do not make that decision without veterinary triage. Call an open clinic or emergency hospital, describe what you saw and follow its advice. Blood plus repeated vomiting, weakness, pale gums, pain, breathing difficulty or suspected toxin exposure requires immediate care.

Why Does My Cat Knock Things Off Tables? The Real Reasons Behind This Quirky Behaviour

You set your coffee mug on the kitchen bench, look away for two seconds, and hear a crash. You turn around to find your cat staring at you from the scene of the crime, completely unbothered. Sound familiar?

If you have ever wondered why cats knock things off tables, you are not alone. It is one of the most talked-about feline behaviours among cat owners in Australia and around the world. And while it can feel like a deliberate act of chaos, there is actually a lot of interesting science behind it.

Australia has one of the highest pet ownership rates in the world, with approximately 69% of households owning pets, and cats are in a significant share of those homes. There are 5.3 million pet cats in Australia, spread across around 3.3 million households. That is a lot of knocked-over coffee mugs. 

So, what is really going on? Let us break it down.

The Reasons Behind This Quirky Feline Habit: Why Cats Knock Things Off Tables

There is no single reason. Cats knock things for a mix of instinct, curiosity, and learned behaviour. Here are the main ones.

Hunting Instincts: Cats Are Hardwired to Test Their Prey

Cats are hardwired to be playful hunters. In the wild, they paw objects to test for movement or life. Knocking objects off a surface could mimic this instinct, your cat is simply “hunting” your pen the way they would a slow-moving lizard. 

Even well-fed domestic cats retain hunting instincts that shape how they interact with objects around them. Cats have a blind spot at very close range, which means they rely more on their whiskers and paws to assess objects directly in front of them. 

When your cat uses their paw to bat something off the counter, they are running a behavioural check: is this thing alive? Does it move? Is it prey? It is instinct, not mischief.

Key takeaway: hunting instincts do not disappear just because a cat lives indoors and eats from a bowl. The drive to test objects with their paws remains fully intact.

Attention-Seeking: Your Reaction Is the Reward

Pet parents may unintentionally reinforce this behaviour by responding when their cat knocks something over. 

A lot of cats knock things over because they have learned it is a quick and easy way to get their human’s attention. Even negative attention counts. So when you gasp, rush over, or scold them, your kitty has already filed that away as a successful strategy.

This is a classic case of attention-seeking behaviour. If your cat knocks something and you react, even with frustration, they are likely to do it again. Cats are smart learners, and they know exactly which buttons to push.

Boredom and Lack of Stimulation

Boredom is a significant contributor to why cats knock things over indoors. Indoor cats without sufficient mental stimulation often invent activities.

Bored cats will entertain themselves however they can. That might mean knocking your keys off the table, pushing your phone off the bench, or systematically clearing your entire bookshelf. For a cat that is not getting enough stimulation, household objects become improvised cat toys.

Behavioural research on indoor cats has shown that a stimulating environment helps them satisfy their natural instincts, keeps their minds sharp, and prevents behavioural issues caused by boredom and frustration. 

Curiosity and Sensory Exploration

Cats use their paws like hands. Batting at objects is their way of testing what something is, how it feels, and how it reacts. Cause and effect curiosity is real for cats: if nudging a cup leads to a clatter, or your attention, that is information worth storing. 

Cats are naturally curious creatures, and their paws are one of their primary tools for gathering information about the world. A cat pushing a glass off the counter is, in their mind, running a completely reasonable experiment.

Playfulness

Sometimes your cat just wants a play session and there are no toys in sight. Cats prefer short bursts of interactive play. When toys are static or unavailable, household objects become substitutes. 

A kitty batting things onto the floor might knock things simply because it is fun. The sound of something hitting the ground, the way an object spins or slides, all of that is genuinely entertaining to a cat.

What the Science Says About Cat Paws and Knocking Things

The fact that cats knock things is not random. It is rooted in how their bodies and brains are built.

Cats enjoy pushing or nudging objects to test their environment and mimic the prey they hunt in the wild. Their sharp senses and understanding of physics help them predict how objects will fall, making it a fun and stimulating activity. 

A study from Animal Cognition found that cats understand object permanence and physical properties. Knocking objects helps them test both. 

A cat’s paw is far more than a blunt instrument. It is packed with nerve endings that send detailed sensory feedback about texture, temperature, and movement. When your cat reaches out and taps an object, they are gathering data, much the way we might pick something up and turn it over in our hands.

This is also why you will often see a cat bat at something onto the floor, then watch it land with intense focus. They are not done with the experiment yet.

Is It Normal? When to Worry and When to Relax

For most cats, knocking things is completely normal behaviour. Here is a quick way to tell the difference.

Situation What it likely means
Occasional knocking, especially when you are nearby Attention-seeking or playfulness, normal
Knocking things when left alone for a while Boredom or under-stimulation
Knocking things + hiding, over-grooming, or aggression Possible stress or anxiety, worth a vet chat
Sudden increase in knocking that is out of character Possible medical issue, book a check-up
Knocking during the morning or evening Normal peak activity times, cats are most active then

If your cat keeps knocking things off tables but is otherwise eating, drinking, grooming, and behaving normally, it is very likely just a habit or a quirk. But if the knocking comes alongside other changes in behaviour, such as hiding, excessive grooming, or aggression, that could be a signal of stress or anxiety worth discussing with your vet.

How to Stop Your Cat From Knocking Things: Practical Tips

If your cat knocking things around is driving you up the wall, here are some strategies that actually work.

Give Them More Interactive Play

The most effective fix for cats knocking things for attention or boredom is more dedicated playtime. Aim for at least two play sessions a day using interactive toys like wand toys or laser pointers.

Tip: a play session before you leave for work can make a real difference to how your indoor cats behave while you are away.

Use Puzzle Feeders and Food Enrichment

Puzzle feeders are one of the best tools for keeping cats from knocking things out of boredom. They tap into those hunting instincts in a productive way, giving your cat a job to do and a reward to earn.

Research published in peer-reviewed literature supports the use of food puzzles for cats as a way to support both physical and emotional wellbeing. 

Do Not React Dramatically

This one is hard but important. If knocking something over gets a reaction from you, that moment of interaction becomes reinforcement. Even negative attention counts. Try to stay calm when it happens. No dramatic gasps, no rushing over. You can calmly remove the object and walk away. 

Create a Stimulating Environment

Give your cats more to do. Cat trees near windows, rotating cat toys, perches, and hiding spots all reduce the urge to invent entertainment by knocking things off surfaces.

Here is a quick checklist for a more enriched home environment:

  • Window perches so they can watch the world outside
  • Cat trees with different levels for climbing
  • Rotating cat toys so things stay fresh and interesting
  • Puzzle feeders or foraging-style feeding
  • Scratching posts in multiple rooms
  • Safe outdoor access if possible, such as a catio or enclosed run

Secure Your Valuables

In the meantime, keep breakables off open surfaces. Move things into cupboards, use museum putty to anchor objects you want to display, and consider enclosed shelving for anything fragile.

When Knocking Things Could Signal Something More

Most of the time, cats knocking things is harmless. But if your cat keeps knocking things off tables alongside any of the following, it is worth a conversation with your vet:

  • Hiding more than usual
  • Changes in appetite or drinking
  • Over-grooming or hair loss
  • Increased aggression or irritability
  • Toileting outside the litter box
  • Restlessness or vocalising more

These signs together can point to stress, anxiety, or an underlying medical condition. A vet can help you rule out physical causes and, if needed, refer you to a feline behaviour specialist.

At Keysborough Veterinary Practice, we see this kind of thing regularly. Melbourne cat owners often come in wondering whether their cat’s behaviour is normal or something to address, and the answer is usually somewhere in between: normal instinct that just needs a bit of redirection.

Quick Reference: Reasons Cats Knock Things and What Helps

Reason Signs What to Do
Hunting instincts Focused, deliberate batting Provide more interactive toys
Attention-seeking Happens when you are nearby and distracted Ignore the behaviour, increase play sessions
Boredom Happens frequently, especially alone Puzzle feeders, cat trees, rotating toys
Curiosity Seems exploratory and investigative Normal, redirect with stimulate-friendly toys
Stress or anxiety Combined with other behaviour changes Visit your vet in Melbourne

Talk to the Team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice

If you are not sure whether your cat’s behaviour is normal or something worth looking into, come in for a chat. Our Melbourne-based team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice has lots of experience with feline behaviour and can help you work out the best approach for your individual cat.

Whether it is a routine health check or a chat about your cat’s quirky habits, we are here to help. Visit our website or get in touch to book an appointment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is my cat trying to annoy me on purpose?
Not exactly. Cats do not think in terms of annoyance, but they do learn quickly that knocking things gets your attention. It is more about cause and effect than spite.

Should I punish my cat for knocking things?
No. Punishment is not effective for cats and can increase stress. Ignoring the behaviour and redirecting with more enrichment works much better.

Why does my cat stare at me while doing it?
They are reading your reaction. Your cat has figured out that you respond to this, and they are watching to confirm it works. Try your best not to react.

What age do cats knock things most?
Kittens and younger cats tend to do it more, as it is tied to play and exploration. It can continue into adulthood, especially if it has been reinforced by attention.

When should I take my cat to the vet for this behaviour?
If the knocking increases suddenly or comes with other behaviour changes like hiding, over-grooming, or appetite changes, book a visit. At Keysborough Veterinary Practice in Melbourne, we are happy to help you figure out what is going on.

How to Tell If Your Dog Has a Fever (Without a Thermometer)

Your dog feels warmer than usual. They haven’t touched their breakfast, and they’re just lying there, looking at you with tired eyes. Something feels off. But you don’t have a thermometer on hand, and the vet clinic doesn’t open for another two hours. What do you do?

You’re not alone. Almost half of all Australian households now own at least one dog, equating to an estimated 7.4 million dogs nationwide, according to Animal Medicines Australia’s 2025 Pets in Australia Survey. With so many dogs in our homes, it’s no surprise that questions about dog health, including how to tell if your dog has a fever, come up again and again.

This guide walks you through the signs of fever in dogs, how to check your dog’s temperature at home, what causes fever in dogs, and when it’s time to call the vet.

What Is a Normal Body Temperature for a Dog?

Before you can tell if your dog has a fever, it helps to understand what “normal” looks like.

The normal body temperature in dogs is 38.3°C to 39.2°C. If your dog’s temperature has risen above 40°C, it’s recommended that you take them to a vet as soon as possible. 

This is higher than a human’s normal body temperature of 37°C, which is why dogs naturally feel warm to the touch. That warmth alone doesn’t mean something is wrong, but when it’s combined with other signs, it can be the first signal that your dog is not well.

38.3°C – 39.2°C — Normal body temperature range for healthy dogs.

39.3°C – 39.9°C — Slightly elevated, worth monitoring.

40°C and above — Considered a dog fever, contact your vet.

41°C and above — High fever: This is an emergency.

Signs of Fever in Dogs (Without a Thermometer)

Dogs can’t tell us when they feel unwell, which makes it our job to pick up on the signals. While a thermometer is the only way to confirm a fever, there are signs of fever in dogs that can tell you something isn’t right.

Here are the dog fever symptoms to watch for:

Warm, dry ears: Ears that feel noticeably hotter than usual, especially on the inner flap, can be an early indicator.

Warm, dry nose combined with lethargy: A dry nose on its own doesn’t confirm illness, but when it shows up alongside tiredness and loss of appetite, it’s worth taking seriously.

Red or glassy eyes: Eyes that look glazed, red, or droopy are a sign your dog may be fighting something off.

Shivering despite warm weather: Shivering can be your dog’s body reacting to an elevated internal temperature, not just the cold.

Panting without exercise: If your dog is panting and hasn’t been running around, their body may be trying to cool itself down.

Loss of appetite: Refusing food is often one of the first signs that your dog might have a fever.

Warm belly and armpits to the touch: These areas have less fur and sit close to the surface, so they’re a useful spot to detect a fever at home.

If you notice a combination of the following symptoms together rather than just one or two, consider taking your dog to the vet sooner rather than later.

The Ear-Touch Method: What Vets Say

You might have heard that you can detect a fever by feeling your dog’s ears. There’s some truth to this, but it’s worth understanding what vets actually say about it.

The ear-touch method works on the idea that a dog’s body temperature rises internally before it shows elsewhere. When the inner ear feels significantly warmer than usual, particularly the skin deep inside the ear canal, it may indicate an elevated core temperature.

However, this method isn’t definitive. Digital ear thermometers, which sit closer to the ear canal, are reasonably accurate but can be affected by the size and shape of the canal, as well as wax or debris buildup. If your pet resists, do not force the device into the ear canal. An infected ear is sore, and inserting a thermometer can be painful. 

The ear-touch method is best used as a prompt to investigate further, not as a final answer.

How to Check Your Dog’s Temperature at Home

If you want a confirmed reading, a rectal thermometer is the most accurate option available for home use.

What you’ll need:

  • A digital thermometer (keep a thermometer just for your dog)
  • Petroleum jelly or lubricant
  • A second person to help restrain your dog calmly

Step by step:

1. Turn on your digital thermometer and lubricate the tip. Coat the thermometer with petroleum jelly to make insertion more comfortable.

2. Gently lift your dog’s tail to expose the rectum.

3. Carefully insert the thermometer roughly 2.5 cm into the rectum. If your dog is small or a puppy, insert it less deeply.

4. Hold still and wait until the thermometer temperature has registered and the device beeps.

5. Carefully remove the thermometer, note the reading, and clean it thoroughly.

This process is easier with two people. One person holds the dog’s head and keeps them calm while the other takes the dog’s temperature. Using a rectal thermometer may feel daunting, but it’s the most reliable method you have access to at home.

If your dog’s temperature drops below 37.2°C or rises above 40°C, call your vet immediately.

Note: Always use a digital thermometer rather than a glass mercury thermometer. Glass thermometers can break and are not safe for use with animals.

Common Causes of Fever in Dogs

Fever is the body’s natural response to fight off infection or illness. Many different conditions can cause a fever in dogs, and in some cases, the cause is not clear, which is known as a fever of unknown origin. 

Here are some of the most common causes of fever in dogs that we see at Keysborough Veterinary Practice:

Bacterial or viral infections: Respiratory, urinary, or skin infections are frequent culprits.

Vaccination reactions: A mild fever in the day or two following vaccination is normal and usually short-lived.

Abscesses: A bite wound or foreign body that becomes infected can cause a localised infection with fever.

Tick-borne illness: Ticks are a genuine concern for Melbourne and wider Victoria. Melbourne has become a hotspot for paralysis ticks due to climate change, and tick-borne illness can cause fever as well as more serious symptoms. According to published research in Veterinary Parasitology (2024), thousands of dogs across eastern Australia develop tick paralysis each year.

Urinary tract infections: These are common in dogs, especially females, and often cause fever alongside changes in toilet habits.

Ingestion of a toxic substance: Some household items, plants, and foods are toxic to dogs and can cause a fever as part of a broader toxic reaction.

What NOT to Do If Your Dog Has a Fever

This is important. When your dog is clearly unwell, the instinct to help them immediately is completely natural. But some common human remedies are dangerous for dogs.

  • Never give your dog paracetamol or ibuprofen. These medications are toxic to dogs, even in small doses. Dog human physiology differs significantly in how these drugs are metabolised, and giving human pain relief to a dog can cause liver failure, kidney damage, or death. It is important to never give your dog medication designed for people unless it has been prescribed by a vet.
  • Do not use ice baths. Placing a feverish dog in an ice bath can cause the blood vessels near the skin to constrict, which actually traps heat inside the body. This can make things worse, not better.

What You Can Do at Home

While you’re monitoring your dog and deciding whether a vet visit is needed, here’s how to help safely:

Offer fresh water: Try to coax your dog to drink small amounts regularly. You can try to coax your dog to drink by offering water from your hand or placing the bowl closer to where they’re resting. Getting your dog to drink small amounts little and often is better than forcing a large drink.

Keep them cool: Move them to a shaded, ventilated area. Place a fan near your dog if the room is warm. A damp cloth on the paws and groin area can also help bring the body temperature down gently.

Apply cool water carefully: You can cool your dog’s body temperature by applying cool, not cold, water to the paw pads, ears, and groin. Check the temperature every 10 to 15 minutes.

Monitor their symptoms: Keep a careful eye on your dog and note any changes. If your dog’s temperature drops back into the normal range and they seem to improve, continue monitoring at home, but follow up with your vet the next day.

Rest: Limit exercise and keep things calm.

When a Fever Is an Emergency

Knowing when to call the vet is one of the most important things a dog owner can understand. If your dog exhibits any of the following, don’t wait:

1. Temperature above 40°C

2. Seizures or collapse

3. Difficulty breathing

4. Vomiting or diarrhoea that doesn’t stop

5. Signs of extreme pain or distress

6. A fever that doesn’t return to normal within 24 hours

For dog owners in Melbourne’s south-east, Keysborough Veterinary Practice is here for exactly these moments. Early veterinary care can make a significant difference in outcomes, especially when the cause of your dog’s fever isn’t clear.

Talk to Our Team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice

If you’re worried your dog might have a fever, or you’d just like peace of mind from a professional, our team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice is here to help. We serve dog owners across Melbourne’s south-east, including Keysborough, Springvale, Noble Park, Dandenong, and surrounding areas. Melbourne pet owners can book an appointment online or give us a call to speak with one of our vets directly.

When it comes to your dog’s health, trusting your instincts and getting a professional opinion is always the right call.

Book an Appointment at Keysborough Veterinary Practice

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Can I tell if my dog has a fever just by touching their nose?
No. A warm or dry nose alone is not a reliable way to detect a fever. You need a thermometer for an accurate reading, or at least several symptoms together.

2. What temperature is considered a dog fever?
Anything above 39.2°C to 39.5°C signals a problem. A reading above 40°C needs immediate veterinary attention.

3. How do I take my dog’s temperature at home?
Use a digital rectal thermometer with lubricant. Insert it gently about 2.5 cm and wait for the beep. Dogs naturally find this uncomfortable, so having someone help keep your dog calm is a good idea.

4. What are the most common signs of fever in dogs?
Look for warm ears, lethargy, loss of appetite, shivering, panting without exercise, red or glassy eyes, and a warm belly or groin to the touch.

5. Is it safe to give my dog paracetamol if they have a fever?
No. Paracetamol and ibuprofen are toxic to dogs and can be fatal. Always contact your vet before giving your dog any medication.

 

Caring for Your Pet After Surgery: Everything You Need to Know for a Safe Recovery at Home

Bringing your furry friend home after a surgical procedure is a mix of relief and nerves. One minute, they were bouncing around the backyard; now, they’re groggy, quiet, and relying entirely on you. It is a lot to take in, and it is completely normal to feel unsure about what comes next.

The good news? With the right post-surgery care at home, most cats and dogs heal beautifully. This guide from our experienced team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice walks you through every step of the recovery period, from the first few hours after surgery, when your pet comes home, right through to the follow-up appointment and beyond.

Whether your pet has had a desexing surgery, a pet dental procedure, an orthopaedic operation, or general soft tissue surgery, the core recovery principles are the same.

According to Animal Medicines Australia’s 2025 Pets in Australia report, 73% of Australian households now own at least one pet, with dogs present in 49% of homes and cats in 34%. That is millions of Australians navigating moments exactly like this one.

The First Few Hours: What Is Normal After Surgery

As soon as your pet arrives home, they will likely seem like a very different version of themselves. That is expected. Here is what is normal in the hours immediately after surgery:

After anaesthesia, it is normal to see temporary changes such as grogginess, unsteady movement, lower body temperature, reduced appetite, confusion, and increased sleepiness. These effects happen as the anaesthetic wears off and usually improve within a few hours. Keep the patient warm, offer food and water only when fully alert, and allow rest for proper recovery.

What is NOT normal and requires a call to your vet within 24 hours:

  • Pale, white, or bluish gums
  • Difficulty breathing or laboured breathing
  • Excessive swelling at the surgery site within the first few hours
  • Vomiting repeatedly (once or twice can be normal; ongoing vomiting is not)
  • Lethargy that does not improve by the next morning
  • Any sign of heavy bleeding from the incision site

If any of these occur, call Keysborough Veterinary Practice immediately on (03) 9798 7274. Do not wait.

Setting Up a Safe Recovery Space at Home

Before you even pick up your pet, it pays to have their recovery space ready. Think calm, contained, and comfortable.

Here is what a good recovery setup looks like:

  • A quiet room away from other pets, young children, and general household chaos
  • Non-slip flooring is particularly important for dogs recovering from orthopaedic surgery, where stability matters
  • Comfortable bedding at ground level, so your pet does not need to jump up onto furniture
  • Consistent temperature, not too hot and not too cold, especially in the first few days after surgery
  • Fresh water is accessible at all times, but hold off on food until your vet gives the go-ahead

A calm environment is not just about comfort; it actively supports healing. Stress raises cortisol levels, which can slow recovery, so keep things quiet and low-key for at least the first few days.

The E-Collar: Why Your Pet Needs It and How to Help Them Adjust

Ah, the cone. Every pet owner has seen the picture, but living with it is a different story altogether.

The Elizabethan collar (e-collar) is one of the most important tools in post-op care. It exists for one reason: to stop your pet from licking or chewing the incision site. And this matters more than most people realise.

Even a few minutes of licking can introduce bacteria, pull at sutures, and undo days of careful healing. The instinct for a dog or cat to lick a wound is strong, and they will act on it the moment they get the chance.

Common questions about the e-collar:

  • My pet hates it. Should I take it off? No. Most pets do adjust within a day or two. It feels strange at first, but they learn to manage it.
  • Can I use an alternative? There are inflatable collars and recovery suits available as alternatives to the standard plastic cone. These can work well for some pets, but always check with your vet before swapping out the collar. Not every alternative prevents licking equally well, and the vet may recommend against it depending on the surgery your pet has had.
  • When can it come off? The e-collar needs to stay on any time you cannot directly supervise your pet. That means even during sleep.

The most common mistake we see? Owners remove the collar “just for a little while” and their pet licks the incision site immediately. Every time this happens, it risks infection and can set recovery back significantly.

Monitoring the Incision Site: Signs of Infection to Watch For

Checking the surgery site once or twice daily is one of the most important jobs during the recovery period. You do not need to prod or disturb it, but a quick visual check goes a long way.

What a normal, healing incision looks like:

  • Mild redness and minor swelling on the first day or two
  • Edges of the wound sit close together and gradually flatten
  • Possible minor bruising nearby (particularly in larger surgeries)
  • Gradual improvement each day

Signs of infection to contact your vet about:

  • Excessive swelling that is increasing, not decreasing
  • Discharge, pus, or fluid leaking from the site
  • Redness that is spreading beyond the immediate area
  • Unpleasant odour coming from the wound
  • The incision opening up (wound dehiscence)
  • Signs of infection combined with lethargy or vomiting

Why this matters: Research published in Veterinary Surgery found that surgical site infection rates in cats and dogs for clean procedures range from around 2.5% to 4.8%. While that is relatively low, infections that do occur can escalate quickly if not caught early. Checking for any signs every day dramatically reduces the risk.

Keep the area clean and dry. No baths, no swimming, and no letting your pet out in the rain until the vet has cleared the incision site. Even brief moisture can soften the tissue and compromise healing.

Activity Restriction: Why It Is Non-Negotiable

This is the instruction that every pet owner struggles with, and the one that causes the most problems when it is not followed.

After surgery, your pet may seem like they feel fine, especially within the first few days when pain relief is still active. Do not be fooled. Underneath the skin, tissue is still repairing itself, sutures are still holding things together, and bone or soft tissue is still knitting back. That process takes time: generally two to six weeks, depending on the procedure.

What activity restriction actually means:

  • Leash walks only, even in your own backyard, for the entire rest period specified by your vet
  • No running, jumping, rough play, or stairs unless the vet has cleared them
  • No off-leash time until given the all-clear at the follow-up appointment

For orthopaedic procedures, this is especially critical. Jumping on furniture or running after a ball during the healing window can cause implant failure or wound breakdown, both of which mean more surgery and a longer road to recovery.

Tips for managing a restless or energetic dog on rest:

  • Puzzle feeders and sniff mats for mental stimulation without physical exertion
  • Calm, short leash walks on a flat surface
  • Frozen Kongs or lick mats to keep them occupied
  • Training games done from a stationary position

Cats tend to be a bit more self-regulating, but they still need to be kept from jumping up onto benches, beds, or high perches until cleared by the vet.

Medications: Giving Them Correctly and What to Watch For

Your vet may prescribe pain relief, antibiotics, or anti-inflammatories following surgery. These medications are important, and they need to be given correctly.

Key points on medications:

  • Pain relief: Give as prescribed, even if your pet seems comfortable. Pain medication keeps your pet calm, which supports healing. Do not skip doses.
  • Antibiotics (if prescribed): Complete the full course, even if the incision looks fine before the course is finished. Stopping early can allow resistant bacteria to develop.
  • Never give human pain medications. Paracetamol, ibuprofen, and aspirin are all toxic to dogs and cats and can cause serious or fatal harm. This is one of the most important things every owner needs to know.

Signs of an adverse reaction to watch for:

  • Vomiting or diarrhoea after starting a new medication
  • Extreme lethargy or unusual behaviour
  • Loss of appetite that continues beyond the first day

If you miss a dose, do not double up. Contact your vet for guidance. And if you are unsure whether to feed your pet before giving a tablet, most can be hidden in a small amount of food, but check with your vet if you have been asked to withhold food for any reason.

 It is common for appetite to be reduced for the first day or two. This can upset their stomach slightly, so start with small, bland amounts once they are fully alert, and the vet has advised that feeding can recommence. If your pet refuses food for longer than 24 hours, contact the clinic.

Pet Dental Surgery Recovery: A Quick Note

Pet dental surgery and extractions follow the same general recovery principles, but there are a couple of additional things to keep in mind.

After pet dental work, your pet may be tender around the mouth for a few days. You may need to soften their food or switch temporarily to wet food. Avoid giving hard treats or chew toys until the dental care site has fully healed. Your vet will let you know when normal dental care and brushing can recommence.

Check for any signs of bleeding or swelling around the mouth in the first 24 hours. Some very minor oozing can be normal; anything more should prompt a call to the clinic.

Follow-Up Appointment: Please Do Not Skip It

Most pets will need a recheck at around 10 to 14 days after surgery for suture removal and wound assessment. For orthopaedic procedures, X-rays may be needed to confirm bone healing and implant positioning.

Even if your pet seems completely back to their normal selves, the follow-up appointment is essential. This is when:

  • Sutures or staples are removed
  • The vet assesses whether the incision site has healed properly
  • Activity restrictions may be modified or lifted
  • Any concerns you have as an owner can be addressed

Do not assume your pet is ready to return to normal activity just because they look fine. Always wait for veterinary clearance first.

Did you know? 87% of pet owners across Australia give their vet a high satisfaction rating, according to Animal Medicines Australia’s 2025 survey. The team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice is here to make sure your pet’s procedure and recovery are part of that positive experience.

A Recovery Checklist for Pet Owners

Use this as a quick reference guide during your pet’s recovery period:

Immediately after surgery (first 24 hours):

  • Keep your pet warm, quiet, and in a safe recovery space
  • Do not feed until your pet is fully alert and the vet has advised
  • Ensure the e-collar is on and fitting correctly
  • Give prescribed medications as directed
  • Check the incision site once before bed

Days 1 to 7:

  • Continue leash-only activity
  • Check the surgery site twice daily for signs of infection
  • Keep the area clean and dry
  • Complete the full course of any prescribed antibiotics
  • Contact the vet if anything concerns you

Days 7 to 14:

  • Attend your follow-up appointment at 10 to 14 days after surgery
  • Do not remove sutures yourself
  • Ask your vet when normal activity, bathing, and dental care can resume

We Are Here for Every Step of the Recovery

Post-surgery care can feel overwhelming, but you do not have to navigate it alone. The experienced team at Keysborough Veterinary Practice is always available to answer your questions, no matter how small. Whether it is your first time caring for a pet after an operation or you just need reassurance that the incision site looks right, we are here.

Melbourne’s south-east pet owners trust our team for surgical care across general procedures, orthopaedic surgery, and pet dental treatments. We are proud to be the vet clinic Keysborough families rely on when their pets need them most.

If something does not look right, do not wait. Call us on (03) 9798 7274 or contact us through our website.

Book a post-operative recheck | Learn about our surgical services | Urgent care information

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How long does it take for a pet to recover from surgery? 

It depends on the procedure. Most pets bounce back quickly from routine surgeries like desexing within one to two weeks, while orthopaedic procedures can require four to six weeks of restricted activity. Your vet will give you a timeline specific to your pet’s procedure.

2. Can my pet lick the incision site if it is healing well? 

No. Even if the wound looks fine, licking introduces bacteria and risks pulling stitches. Keep the e-collar on to prevent this throughout the entire healing period.

3. What should I feed my pet after surgery? 

Offer a small, easily digestible meal once your pet is fully alert. A large meal too soon can upset their stomach. Your vet will advise on when to return to their normal diet.

4. Is it normal for my pet to be quiet or sad after surgery? 

Yes. Grogginess, reduced energy, and lower-than-usual mood are all expected in the first day or two as the general anaesthesia clears. If your pet has not improved by day two or three, call your vet.

5. When should I call the vet after surgery? 

Call immediately if you notice heavy bleeding, difficulty breathing, pale gums, repeated vomiting, or any signs of infection at the incision site. When in doubt, always call rather than wait.

Pet Dental Surgery: What Keysborough Owners Should Expect on Procedure Day

So your vet has told you that your pet needs a dental procedure. Maybe it is a scale and polish, maybe there are a few teeth that need to come out. Either way, you are probably sitting there wondering what actually happens on the day, and whether your furry mate is going to be okay.

That feeling is completely normal. Most pet owners in Keysborough and across Melbourne feel anxious in the lead-up to their pet’s dental procedure. The good news is that once you know what to expect, the whole thing feels a lot less daunting.

According to the Australian Veterinary Association (AVA), four out of every five dogs and cats over the age of three have some degree of dental disease. That means dental procedures are one of the most common things vets do, day in, day out. The team at Keysvet in Keysborough performs these regularly, with careful anaesthetic monitoring and a genuine focus on your pet’s comfort and safety.

This guide walks you through everything: from the night before drop-off to what to do when you bring your pet home that evening.

The Night Before: How to Pre-Surgery Prepare Your Pet

Getting a few things right the night before will make your pet’s surgery smoother for everyone.

Fasting is essential. Your pet requires fasting from midnight the night before the procedure. No food after midnight, though water is generally fine until a few hours before drop-off. Your vet will give you specific instructions, so always follow what they tell you over any general advice.

Keep things calm. Skip the big game of fetch or any exciting roughhousing. Help your pet relax with some quiet time and a comfortable sleep.

Prepare your information. When you first arrive at the clinic, the team will ask for relevant information about your pet’s health, including:

The time of their last meal

Any medications they are currently on

Any recent health changes or concerns

Having this ready means admission goes smoothly and quickly.

Drop-Off: What Happens When You Leave Your Pet

Saying goodbye at the clinic door is the hardest part for most owners. Here is what is happening on the other side of that door.

When your pet has been admitted, you will complete an admission form, which includes contact phone numbers so the team can reach you during the day.

Pre-Anaesthesia: Getting Your Pet Ready

A veterinary nurse will settle your pet in, and the veterinary team will:

  1. Perform a health check, reviewing your pet’s history and confirming fasting
  2. Carry out pre-anaesthetic blood tests if these have not already been done, to check your pet’s blood, organ function and overall health before any anaesthetic agent is administered
  3. Place an IV catheter so that fluids and medications can be given safely
  4. Administer a sedative (pre-medication) to help your pet relax before the procedure begins

Pre-anaesthetic blood tests are an important step in every pet’s dental procedure. Modern anaesthetic agents used by veterinarians are safe, anaesthetised animals are closely monitored, and complications are rare.

Once everything is in order, the anaesthesia begins, and your pet is transferred to the dental suite.

You will typically hear from the vet or nurse after the procedure is complete, so expect a call in the afternoon rather than at midday. Resist the urge to ring every hour, as the team is focused on giving your pet their best care.

The Dental Procedure: What Veterinary Dentistry Actually Involves

Once your pet is under general anaesthesia, the vet can examine the mouth thoroughly and treat any dental issues properly. This is why anaesthesia is non-negotiable for proper pet dentistry: it is not possible to perform a professionally thorough and complete dental examination in the fully conscious animal. 

Here is a typical sequence for a dental procedure day:

  1. Full Oral Examination
    What Happens: The vet examines the mouth, checks gum pockets, and charts all teeth
  2. Dental X-rays
    What Happens: X-rays are taken to evaluate tooth roots and underlying bone not visible externally
  3. Scaling
    What Happens: Tartar is removed using an ultrasonic scaler, both above and below the gum line
  4. Polishing
    What Happens: Enamel surfaces are smoothed to help reduce future tartar build-up
  5. Extraction (if needed)
    What Happens: Damaged or diseased teeth are surgically removed
  6. Monitoring Throughout
    What Happens: Vital signs such as heart rate, blood pressure, and temperature are continuously monitored

A Note on Dental X-Rays

X-rays are not just an add-on. They allow the vet to see what is happening beneath the gum line, where most dental disease actually lives. Problems with tooth roots, bone loss and abscesses are invisible without them. This is why our X-rays and ultrasounds service is a key part of every dental procedure at Keysi Vet.

What About Extractions?

If your pet requires an extraction as part of their oral surgery, the vet will explain why. Teeth that are fractured, infected or affected by advanced dental disease can cause ongoing pain and even systemic illness if left in place. Most pets recover within a few days, though healing below the gum line continues for one to two weeks.

The number of teeth removed depends entirely on what the examination and X-rays reveal. Sometimes it is one tooth. Sometimes it is several. The vet will always aim to preserve healthy teeth and only recommend removal where it is truly in your pet’s best interest.

Recovery at the Clinic and the Pick-Up Call

After the procedure, your pet will recover in a warm, monitored space at the clinic. Most pets undergoing a dental procedure will be up and about and ready to walk out the door in the afternoon on the same day, with most discharged after 4:30 pm to allow ample time to recover from the anaesthesia.

All patients will receive pain relief before and after the procedure.

When the vet or nurse calls you, listen carefully. They will go through:

  • What was found during the examination
  • Whether any extractions were performed
  • Which medications are going home with your pet
  • Any specific instructions to follow at home
  • Whether a follow-up appointment is needed

Do not be afraid to ask questions during this call. The veterinary team is there to make sure you feel confident taking your pet home.

When you arrive for pick-up, your pet may be groggy, a little unsteady on their feet and quieter than usual. This is completely normal after anaesthesia and nothing to worry about.

Every Pet Matters: The First 24 Hours at Home

Feeding Your Pet After Surgery

Offer soft food on the night of the procedure

If no extractions were performed, you can return to their normal diet the following day

If extractions were done, stick with soft food for several days as directed

Make sure your pet does not eat means your pet does not eat hard kibble, bones or chews until cleared by your vet

Pain Relief at Home

Your pet will receive pain relief medication to take home. Pets who have undergone a tooth extraction will likely have been administered an anti-inflammatory injection for pain relief, and additional medication for ongoing pain relief may also be provided.

Give medications exactly as prescribed. Do not skip doses, and do not give human pain medications, as many are toxic to cats and dogs.

What is Normal in the First 24 Hours

After any surgical procedure under anaesthesia, you can expect:

Sleepiness and disorientation for the rest of the day

Reduced appetite, especially if extractions were performed

Mild gum bleeding, particularly in the first few hours after extraction

When to Call the Vet

Contact the clinic right away if you notice any of the following signs throughout recovery:

Excessive or ongoing bleeding from the mouth

Non-stop vomiting

Extreme lethargy persisting past 24 hours

Refusal to eat after 24 hours

Swelling around the mouth or face that does not improve

Recovery After Extractions: What Is Different

If your pet’s dental procedure included extractions, recovery looks slightly different.

Give your pet soft food for one to two weeks if multiple teeth were removed. Most pets will readily continue to eat hard nuggets of food even when their mouth is still sore, and this could cause damage to any sutures placed in the gums.

During the healing period:

No bones, hard chews or toys that could stress the extraction site

No tooth brushing around the surgical area until cleared

Keep exercise gentle, particularly for the first few days

Attend any follow-up appointment scheduled at discharge, typically around 10 to 12 days post-procedure

The great news? Most pets are back to eating, playing and being themselves within 24 to 48 hours of the procedure. The difference in their demeanour once a painful tooth is gone often surprises owners.

Why Dental Care in Keysborough Matters

Dental disease does not stay in the mouth. Left untreated, bacteria from infected gums can enter the bloodstream and affect the heart, kidneys and liver. PetSure claims data analysed by Bow Wow Meow found that the average cost of treating dental disease in dogs in 2024 was $816, with some bills climbing to $13,158. 

Early intervention means shorter procedures, less discomfort and a faster recovery. That is true whether you are bringing your dog or cat to a vet in Keysborough, or anywhere else across Melbourne.

Australia’s pet dental health market is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 8.1% from 2024 to 2030, reflecting just how seriously Australian pet owners are taking their pets’ oral health.

Book Your Pet’s Dental Procedure at Keysi Vet, Keysborough

If your pet has a dental procedure scheduled, or if you just want to know more before committing to a date, our team is happy to walk you through everything. Keysvet offers full anaesthetic monitoring, pre-anaesthetic blood screening, digital dental X-rays and a caring team that treats every pet like their own.

We see and treat pets from Keysborough and right across Melbourne’s south-east.

Contact us today on (03) 9798 7274 or book online. We are here to answer any questions, before and after the procedure.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Does my pet need to fast before a dental procedure?
    Yes. Food must be withheld from midnight the night before. Water is usually fine until a few hours before drop-off, but follow your vet’s specific instructions.
  2. Will my pet be in pain after the procedure?
    Your pet will receive pain relief at the clinic and go home with medication. Some mild discomfort is normal for a day or two, particularly after extractions, but this is well managed.
  3. How long does a pet dental procedure take?
    It varies depending on what is found once the vet can properly examine the mouth under anaesthesia. A routine scale and polish may take an hour, while procedures involving multiple extractions take longer.
  4. What if my pet needs teeth removed?
    Extraction is recommended when a tooth is too damaged or diseased to be saved. Most pets adapt very well and are eating comfortably again within one to two days.
  5. When should I book a dental check for my pet?
    At least once a year is recommended, or sooner if you notice bad breath, difficulty eating, drooling or visible tartar build-up. Book your pet in for a dental check at Keysvet today.

Heartworm Disease in Dogs and Cats: The Preventable Disease Keysborough Pet Owners Need to Understand

If you’re a pet owner in Keysborough, there’s a good chance you’re already on top of flea treatments and intestinal worms. But here’s the thing: heartworm disease is a completely different beast, and many pet owners don’t even know their current flea and worm products don’t cover it.

Heartworm is a serious, potentially fatal condition that quietly damages your pet’s heart and lungs, sometimes for years, before any signs appear. The good news? It’s almost entirely preventable. The not-so-good news? If you’ve let prevention lapse, you can’t simply restart it without seeing a vet first.

This guide covers everything Keysborough pet owners need to know about heartworm disease, including how it spreads, what it does to your pet’s body, and what heartworm prevention actually looks like in Australia.

What Is Heartworm Disease and How Is It Different from Other Worms?

Heartworm disease is caused by Dirofilaria immitis, a parasitic worm that lives in the heart, lungs, and blood vessels of infected animals. Unlike intestinal worms, heartworm is not picked up from the environment or passed between pets directly. It spreads through mosquito bites, which makes it a very different kind of threat.

This distinction matters a lot for pet owners. Intestinal worms like roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms are covered by most standard worming products. Heartworm is not. Many heartworm preventatives also protect against intestinal worms, but the reverse is not true. If your dog or cat is only on a basic worming tablet, they are not protected from heartworm.

Here is a quick comparison to clear things up:

  • Transmission
    Intestinal Worms: Ingestion of eggs from contaminated environment
    Heartworm: Spread through mosquito bites
  • Location in Body
    Intestinal Worms: Digestive tract (intestines)
    Heartworm: Heart, lungs, and blood vessels
  • Covered by Standard Wormers?
    Intestinal Worms: Yes
    Heartworm: No
  • Detectable Early?
    Intestinal Worms: Often detectable early
    Heartworm: Often difficult to detect early
  • Potentially Fatal?
    Intestinal Worms: Rarely fatal
    Heartworm: Can be fatal if untreated

Dogs are the natural host for heartworms, which means the worms can reach full maturity inside a dog and reproduce. Cats are considered atypical hosts, but they are still susceptible to heartworm. Even one or two adult heartworms infecting a cat can cause serious health problems, and because the medication used in dogs cannot be used in cats, prevention is the only real option for felines.

Is Heartworm a Risk in Keysborough and Victoria?

This is where a lot of Melbourne pet owners get it wrong. The general assumption is that heartworm is a “northern problem,” a concern for people in Queensland or the Northern Territory. And while it is true that the prevalence of heartworm disease is much higher in tropical and subtropical regions, that doesn’t mean Victorian pets are safe.

Research on foxes in the Melbourne surrounds found that around 7% carry heartworm, acting as a source of infection for city pets, suggesting that any pet not on heartworm prevention could have roughly a one-in-ten chance of being infected. 

Climate change is now increasing the risk of mosquito populations growing in Melbourne and across Victoria, with higher temperatures, higher humidity, and more extreme rain events contributing to the problem. Notably, the Australian backyard mosquito (Aedes notoscriptus) is the main vector for heartworms in dogs, and changing conditions are giving this species a leg up in southern regions. 

Dogs travelling interstate, particularly to Queensland or New South Wales, face a much higher risk. Studies of shelter dogs in Townsville found heartworm infection rates as high as 22%, compared to around 1.1% in Brisbane dogs tested by standard methods. If your dog accompanies you on interstate trips or holidays, this is a real consideration.

The bottom line for Keysborough: the risk in Victoria is lower than in the north, but it is not zero, and it is growing. And because heartworm is a slow-onset disease, the consequences of assuming you’re safe can show up years down the line.

How Heartworm Is Transmitted: The Mosquito Connection

Understanding how heartworm spreads helps explain why prevention is so important, and why it needs to be year-round.

Here is how the lifecycle works:

1. A mosquito bites an infected dog and picks up microscopic heartworm larvae (microfilariae) from the bloodstream.

2. Inside the mosquito, the larvae develop through a larval stage over approximately two weeks.

3. When that infected mosquito bites your pet, the heartworm larvae are deposited under the skin.

4. The larvae then migrate through the tissues and enter the bloodstream, eventually reaching the heart and the vessels going to the lungs.

5. Over the next six months, they mature into adult worms.

A few important things to note:

  • Indoor pets are not fully protected. Mosquitoes enter homes, and it only takes one mosquito bite.
  • There is a six-month gap between infection and detectability on a blood test, meaning heartworm can be silently developing without any clinical signs.
  • Without effective heartworm prevention, heartworms may be silently and dangerously developing in your pet with no signs for up to five years.

This is what makes heartworm disease so insidious. By the time you notice something is wrong, significant damage may already have been done.

Clinical Signs of Heartworm: Often Absent Until Severe

One of the most concerning things about heartworm is that in the early stages, there are no obvious symptoms. Many dogs show nothing at all while the disease progresses internally.

As the worm burden grows and damage accumulates, clinical signs of heartworm disease begin to appear. Here is how it typically unfolds:

  • Early to mid stages:
  • Slight lethargy or a cough that doesn’t go away
  • Reduced exercise tolerance (your dog tyres more easily than usual)
  • Weight loss without an obvious reason
  •  Late stages:
  • Persistent coughing and laboured breathing
  • A pot-bellied appearance due to fluid accumulation
  • Signs of heart failure

Advanced or severe cases:

  • Sudden collapse
  • Caval syndrome (where the sheer number of worms blocks blood flow from the heart to the lungs)
  • Death

The signs of heartworm disease in cats are different and often even more alarming. Cats with heartworm may show respiratory distress similar to asthma, or they may simply collapse and die without any prior warning. Sudden death is more common in cats than in dogs, and there is no approved treatment for cats once infection occurs.

The brutal truth: by the time most pet owners notice something is wrong, the damage is already significant. Early detection through routine veterinary checks is really the only safety net.

Heartworm Prevention for Dogs and Cats: Options and How They Work

The good news is that heartworm prevention is highly effective, widely available, and far less complex than treatment. The Australian Heartworm Advisory Panel recommends that all dogs be on year-round heartworm prevention, regardless of where they live in Australia.

Here are the main options available:

Monthly Oral Tablet
How It Works: Eliminates heartworm larvae before they develop into adults
Frequency: Every 30 days

Monthly Topical Spot-On
How It Works: Applied to the skin and absorbed into the bloodstream for protection
Frequency: Every 30 days

Annual Heartworm Injection (ProHeart SR-12)
How It Works: Slow-release moxidectin provides continuous protection against heartworm
Frequency: Once yearly

In Australia, prevention can involve monthly topical or oral preventatives, or annual injections of extended-release moxidectin (ProHeart SR-12), and poor compliance with any of these products can leave dogs susceptible to infection.

The annual injection is particularly popular in Australia because it removes the risk of forgetting a monthly dose. It ties in neatly with your dog’s yearly wellness visit, meaning one appointment covers heartworm prevention for the entire year.

A critical point: if prevention has lapsed, do not simply restart it without seeing a vet first.

If there has been a gap in your pet’s heartworm prevention, a blood test is needed before restarting any preventative product. Giving heartworm prevention to a dog that already has an active infection can trigger a dangerous reaction as the larvae die rapidly in the bloodstream. Your veterinarian needs to confirm your pet is clear before recommending the next steps.

Puppies should start heartworm prevention from around six to eight weeks of age, though the specific product and timing will depend on your vet’s recommendation. Adult dogs that have never been on prevention, or that have had a gap, need to be tested first.

The team at Keysvet in Keysborough can advise you on the right product and schedule at a wellness visit, including whether your current flea and worm product also protects against heartworm. Many heartworm preventatives also protect against intestinal worms, so it is worth reviewing what your pet is currently on.

Heartworm Treatment: Why Prevention Is the Best Option

If prevention is the easy path, treatment is the hard one. And it really is the best course of action to avoid it altogether.

Treating heartworm disease in dogs is a long, difficult, and risky process. Here is what it typically involves:

  • A course of antibiotics (doxycycline) to weaken the worms
  • A series of arsenic-based injections (melarsomine) is administered into the muscle over several months to kill the adult worms
  • Strict rest and exercise restriction for weeks, because activity during treatment causes dead worms to fragment and lodge in the lung blood vessels, which can be fatal
  • Multiple follow-up blood tests and veterinary visits to monitor recovery

The heartworm treatment is demanding on your dog’s body, and while most dogs do survive with proper veterinary care, complications can and do occur. The enforced rest period alone is extremely difficult for active dogs and their owners.

As for cats, the situation is even more serious. There is no approved treatment for heartworm in cats. Management is palliative, meaning the goal is to keep the cat as comfortable as possible while the infection runs its course.

Prevention is the best option always.

Should You Ask Your Vet About Heartworm? Yes, Especially If You’re Unsure

Here is a checklist that might help you work out where you stand:

  • Do you know whether your current flea and worm product covers heartworm? (Many don’t, so check the label or ask your vet.)
  • Has your dog or cat had a gap in their prevention in the last six to twelve months?
  • Have you recently adopted a pet with an unknown medical history?
  • Does your dog travel interstate, particularly to Queensland or northern New South Wales?
  • Has your pet never been on heartworm prevention?

If you answered yes to any of these, it is worth having a conversation with your veterinarian. A simple blood test can confirm whether your pet has been exposed, and from there, your vet can recommend the right path forward, whether that’s a preventative product, a heartworm injection, or further investigation.

Diagnosing heartworm can be challenging in the early stages because the disease takes months to show up on standard tests. This is another reason why prevention is so much better than waiting to find a problem.

To book a wellness visit at Keysvet in Keysborough, call (03) 9798 7274. The team can review your pet’s current parasite prevention, check whether heartworm is covered, and make sure your dog or cat is protected year-round.

Learn more about our Flea & Worm services and Vaccination & Wellness visits to see how we can keep your pet healthy from the inside out.

Frequently Asked Questions About Heartworm in Dogs and Cats

Is heartworm common in Victoria? 

It is less common than in northern Australia, but the risk is real. Research on foxes in the Melbourne surrounds found heartworm in around 7% of animals, and climate change is extending the mosquito season in Victoria each year.

Does my dog’s monthly worming tablet cover heartworm? 

Most standard worming tablets do not cover heartworm. Check your product label or ask your vet, as some combination products do include heartworm protection.

Can cats get heartworm? 

Yes. Heartworms in cats behave differently from dogs, but even one or two adult worms can cause serious illness. Sudden death is more common in cats, and there is no approved treatment, so prevention is essential.

What happens if I miss a month of heartworm prevention? 

A short gap may not lead to infection, but it increases the risk. If the gap has been longer than a month or two, see your vet before restarting prevention, as a blood test may be needed first.

How does the annual heartworm injection work? 

The ProHeart SR-12 injection uses slow-release microspheres that gradually release a protective compound over 12 months. It is not a vaccine but a long-acting preventative, and it is administered by your vet once a year, making it very convenient for busy pet owners.

Senior Pet Health Checks in Keysborough: Why Pets Over Seven Need More Than an Annual Vaccine Visit

If your dog or cat is turning seven this year, congrats:  they’re officially a senior pet. And while that first grey muzzle hair is kind of adorable, it’s also a good reminder that what your pet needs from a vet visit is starting to change.

Here’s the thing: a lot of Keysborough pet owners don’t realise that the annual vaccine check-up that’s kept your pet healthy through their younger years isn’t quite enough anymore. It’s a great start, but for older pets, it leaves a lot of ground uncovered. This article walks you through what changes as pets age, what a proper senior pet health check actually looks like, and why the standard once-a-year visit is no longer the recommended approach for dogs and cats over seven.

When Does a Dog or Cat Become ‘Senior’?

This one surprises people. The age at which dogs and cats are considered senior varies quite a bit:

  • Small & Medium Dogs – Considered senior from 7 years
  • Large Breed Dogs – Considered senior from 6 years
  • Giant Breed Dogs – Considered senior from 5 years
  • Cats (Mature Stage) – From 7 years
  • Cats (Senior Stage) – From 10–11 years

So if you have a seven-year-old Labrador, they are already a senior dog by veterinary standards. Cats have a bit more runway in the “mature adult” phase, but the biological changes still begin well before age ten.

The real issue isn’t just the number:  it’s what’s happening inside. As pets age, their health parameters shift faster. What was a perfectly normal blood result twelve months ago might look quite different today. That’s why leaving a twelve-month gap between check-ups, which is fine for younger animals, starts to carry real risk for older ones.

What Actually Changes Inside an Ageing Pet’s Body

When we talk about age-related changes in dogs and cats, we’re talking about real, measurable shifts in organ function and physical condition. Here’s what vets look for as pets age:

  • Kidney function: One of the first organs to show signs of decline in both dogs and cats. Early kidney disease is largely silent, which is exactly why it needs to be actively tested for.
  • Liver function: Can decline gradually, affecting how your pet processes medications and metabolises food.
  • Heart health: Cardiac disease becomes more common in senior pets and can be managed effectively if found early.
  • Thyroid function: Particularly relevant in cats. Hyperthyroidism is the most common endocrine disorder in senior cats and is recognised across Australia, New Zealand, the UK, and beyond as a major cause of ill-health in older cats.
  • Joints and muscles: Arthritis affects a significant number of dogs, with research from the University of Sydney finding approximately 20% of Australian dogs over one year of age show signs of osteoarthritis, a number that rises considerably with age.
  • Dental health: Dental disease accelerates in senior years, leading to chronic pain and bacteria entering the bloodstream.
  • Cognitive function: Dogs can develop canine cognitive dysfunction, the equivalent of dementia, which affects sleep, behaviour, and orientation.

These aren’t rare or unusual problems:  they’re a predictable part of how dogs and cats age. The question is whether you catch them early enough to do something about it.

Why Annual Check-Ups Are Not Enough for Senior Pets

To put this in perspective: a ten-year-old dog is roughly equivalent to a 70-year-old person in human terms. Imagine that person visiting their GP just once every seven years. You’d be concerned, right?

For senior pets, regular health checks every six months are now the standard recommendation from veterinary professionals. Here’s why that matters:

  • Conditions like kidney disease, heart disease, and hyperthyroidism can progress significantly within six months.
  • Early detection through regular vet visits and blood panels is one of the most effective tools available.
  • Around one in six cat and dog owners across Australia deferred veterinary check-ups and vaccinations due to cost-of-living pressures, according to Animal Medicines Australia’s 2025 Pets in Australia report. Deferred check-ups in senior animals can mean health issues go undetected until they’re much harder to treat.

A standard vaccine visit typically involves a physical exam and the appropriate vaccination. A proper senior pet health check goes considerably further.

What’s included in a senior check-up vs a standard vaccine visit:

The gap between those two columns is the gap between catching something early and finding out about it when it’s already become serious.

  • Physical Examination
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: Yes
    • Senior Health Check: Yes (more detailed)
  • Weight & Body Condition
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: Yes
    • Senior Health Check: Yes
  • Vaccination
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: Yes
    • Senior Health Check: Yes
  • Blood Panel (Full)
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: No
    • Senior Health Check: Yes
  • Urinalysis
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: No
    • Senior Health Check: Yes
  • Blood Pressure
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: No
    • Senior Health Check: Yes
  • Thyroid Testing (Cats)
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: No
    • Senior Health Check: Yes (cats 10+)
  • Joint Assessment
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: No
    • Senior Health Check: Yes
  • X-rays or Ultrasound (if needed)
    • Standard Vaccine Visit: No
    • Senior Health Check: Sometimes

Senior-Specific Diagnostic Tests at Keysvet

At our Keysborough veterinary practice, a dedicated senior pet health check is built around what actually changes in older animals. Here’s what our vet may recommend as part of a full senior wellness assessment:

  • Complete blood count and biochemistry panel:  checks organ function, red and white blood cell counts, and overall health indicators
  • Thyroid hormone testing:  particularly important for cats over ten, given that hyperthyroidism affects an estimated 10% or more of senior cats worldwide, including in Australia
  • Urinalysis:  one of the earliest indicators of kidney disease, often showing changes before blood results do
  • Blood pressure monitoring: Elevated blood pressure is common in older cats and dogs, and is often linked to underlying kidney or thyroid disease
  • Joint assessment:  a hands-on evaluation for pain, swelling, or reduced range of motion that might indicate arthritis
  • Chest and abdominal X-rays:  used when there’s reason to assess heart size, lung condition, or organ changes more closely

These tests aren’t about running up a bill:  they’re about getting a clear picture of your pet’s overall health so that any age-related concerns can be addressed before they become serious health issues.

Common Conditions Caught Early Through Senior Screening

Regular health checks allow vets to find things that don’t yet have obvious symptoms. The conditions below are all manageable when found early and much harder to treat when they’ve had time to progress.

  • Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD) CKD is one of the most common conditions in senior cats. Research shows kidney disease affects up to 40% of cats over the age of 10 and as many as 80% of cats over 15 (Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, updated January 2025). In dogs, it affects up to 10% of elderly animals. Early kidney disease has no obvious signs:  regular urinalysis and blood panels are the only reliable ways to find it.
  • Hyperthyroidism in Cats Hyperthyroidism is now recognised as the most common endocrine disorder in cats across Australia. A survey of Australian general practice veterinarians published in 2016 found that 95% of the 546 respondents had diagnosed more than one cat with hyperthyroidism in the previous six months.  Left untreated, it causes significant harm to the heart and kidneys.
  • Arthritis and dental disease are two of the most overlooked sources of chronic pain in senior dogs and cats, but arthritis is close behind. Research from the University of Sydney found that approximately 20% of Australian dogs over one year of age are affected by osteoarthritis, with prevalence increasing significantly in older dogs. Pain management and joint support can dramatically improve daily comfort and quality of life.
  • Dental Disease Dental health deteriorates rapidly in the senior years. Untreated dental disease causes ongoing pain and allows bacteria to enter the bloodstream, affecting the kidneys, liver, and heart.
  • Early Cardiac Disease Heart disease in dogs, particularly in certain breeds, is manageable with medication when caught at the right stage. Regular vet visits, including chest assessments, can significantly extend a dog’s comfortable, active years.

Signs to Watch for at Home Between Visits

You don’t need veterinary training to notice that something has changed. Keysborough pet owners who know what to look for can help their vet catch potential health issues early. Keep an eye on:

  • Increased thirst or urination:  a common early sign of kidney disease or thyroid problems in cats
  • Weight loss despite eating normally can indicate hyperthyroidism, diabetes, or other issues requiring investigation
  • Reluctance to jump, climb stairs, or get comfortable:  classic arthritis signs in dogs and cats
  • Bad breath, difficulty chewing, or dropping food:  often points to dental disease
  • Confusion, changed sleep cycles, or vocalising at night:  possible signs of canine cognitive dysfunction
  • Changes in coat quality or energy levels:  general health changes that are worth flagging

The important thing here is not to chalk everything up to “just getting old.” Many of these symptoms are very treatable, but only if your vet knows about them. Frequent vet visits in your senior pet’s years make a real difference because your vet is building a picture of what’s normal for your individual animal, and can spot when something shifts.

What Preventive Care Actually Looks Like for Senior Pets

Preventive care for a senior pet is not complicated, but it does require a bit more attention than when they were younger. Here’s what a sensible plan looks like:

  • Every six months: A full senior health check, including physical exam and relevant blood panel
  • Every twelve months: Health checks and vaccinations as applicable
  • Ongoing at home: Monitoring weight, eating habits, water intake, and mobility
  • Dental care: Regular dental checks with professional cleaning as recommended
  • Immediate vet contact: Any sudden changes in behaviour, appetite, or mobility

Maintaining your pet’s health as they get older is genuinely one of the most valuable things you can do for them. And when you think about it, it’s part of responsible pet ownership:  they can’t tell you when something hurts or feels wrong.

Book a Senior Pet Health Check at Keysvet

If your dog or cat is seven or older, a standard vaccine visit isn’t quite the full picture anymore. Book a senior pet health check with our Keysborough team and ensure your pet stays healthy and gets the dedicated screening their senior years require.

Our Melbourne-based Keysborough veterinary practice is here to support your senior pet’s long-term health and wellbeing. Call us on (03) 9798 7274 to organise a senior health plan today.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I start senior health checks for my dog or cat? 

Most vets recommend starting dedicated senior screening from age seven for dogs and from age seven to ten for cats, depending on breed and health history.

How often should senior pets see a vet? 

Every six months is the general recommendation for pets in their senior years. Annual visits are fine for younger, healthy adult dogs, but not adequate once pets age into their senior bracket.

What does a senior health check include? 

A senior health check typically includes a detailed physical exam, blood panel, urinalysis, blood pressure monitoring, and joint assessment. Thyroid testing is usually added for cats over ten.

Can the vet really find something on a blood test before my pet seems sick? 

Yes, and that’s exactly the point. Kidney disease and hyperthyroidism in particular often show up on diagnostic tests well before your pet shows any obvious signs.

Is dental care part of a senior wellness check? 

Your vet will assess your pet’s dental health as part of a senior check-up and can advise whether a professional dental cleaning is recommended.

 

What Happens When Your Pet Goes Under Anaesthesia: Everything You Need to Know | Keysborough Pet Owners Guide

If your dog or cat has a procedure coming up, there’s a good chance the anaesthesia is what’s keeping you up at night, not the surgery itself. That’s completely normal. Many pet parents feel this way, and the questions we hear most often at our Keysborough veterinary practice are: Will my pet wake up? Is it safe for older animals? Who is watching them while they’re under?

This guide is here to explain what really happens when your pet goes under anaesthesia, so you can feel informed rather than anxious before the big day. With 73% of Australian households now owning at least one pet, these are questions vets across Melbourne answer every single day.

Why General Anaesthesia Is Necessary for Certain Procedures

Not every procedure needs general anaesthesia, but many do. Here’s the difference:

Sedation and general anaesthesia are both used in veterinary care to manage pain and anxiety during procedures, but they differ in intensity and application. Sedation helps reduce anxiety and keeps the pet calm while remaining conscious, making it suitable for minor procedures and certain imaging tests. In contrast, general anaesthesia induces complete unconsciousness along with full pain relief, and is typically used for more complex procedures such as surgeries, dental extractions, and orthopaedic work.

Key Points:

  • Sedation
    • Reduces anxiety and keeps the pet calm
    • Pet remains conscious
    • Used for minor procedures and some imaging
  • General Anaesthesia
    • Causes complete unconsciousness
    • Provides full pain relief
    • Used for surgery, dental extractions, and orthopaedic procedures


For procedures like dental care (including extractions), orthopaedic surgery, and abdominal surgery, pets need to be completely still. This isn’t just about comfort. A single flinch during a dental extraction or joint repair can cause serious harm. Restraint alone simply isn’t safe or humane for precise veterinary work.

General anaesthetic also ensures that your pet feels nothing throughout the procedure. Pain relief is built into the process, not an afterthought.

Pre-Anaesthetic Blood Tests and What We Check Before We Start

Before any anaesthesia for surgery at our Keysborough veterinary practice, we carry out a thorough pre-anaesthetic assessment. This is non-negotiable, and here’s why.

What the pre-anaesthetic blood work screens for:

  • Liver function: The liver processes most anaesthetic agents. If it’s not working well, the drugs won’t clear from the body properly.
  • Kidney function: Kidneys filter waste and maintain fluid balance. Impaired kidneys change which drugs we can safely use and at what dose.
  • Red and white blood cell counts: These tell us about oxygen-carrying capacity and whether infection or inflammation is present.
  • Blood glucose and protein levels: Especially important in older pets or those with known health conditions.

We also recommend pre-anaesthetic blood tests because they can pick up problems that aren’t obvious during a physical examination. A pet that looks healthy on the outside can still have early-stage organ function changes that affect how it responds to anaesthesia.

Alongside blood work, every pet receives a full physical examination and health history review before we proceed. We’ll ask about any medications your pet is on, any past reactions to anaesthesia, and any health condition you may have noticed at home. Please don’t hold anything back here. The more we know, the safer we can make the process.

Fasting: Your pet must not eat before the procedure. For most dogs and cats, this means no food from the night before. This reduces the risk of vomiting and inhaling stomach contents while under general anaesthetic, which can be life-threatening. Water rules vary, so always check with your vet.

What Happens in the Room: How Anaesthesia Is Administered and Monitored

Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of what happens when your pet goes under anaesthesia at our clinic.

Step 1: Pre-Medication

Going under is smoother and safer with injectable medications first. Before induction, pets are given pre-medication, usually a combination of calming agents and pain relief. This reduces anxiety, lowers the dose of induction agent needed, and makes the whole experience gentler for your pet. Your pet drifts off to sleep gradually rather than being plunged into unconsciousness.

Step 2: Induction

The induction agent is given directly into the vein, usually through a catheter placed in the foreleg. This brings your pet to full unconsciousness within seconds. We then place a breathing tube into their airway. This keeps their airway protected and allows us to provide oxygen and the anaesthetic gas continuously throughout the procedure.

Many pets can’t tolerate the strong smell of anaesthetic gas on its own, which is why going under this way, with injectable medications first, is far more comfortable.

Step 3: Maintenance

Once the breathing tube is in place, we maintain anaesthesia using inhaled anaesthetic gas (isoflurane or sevoflurane are most commonly used). The amount flows through the tube in a carefully controlled way, and our team adjusts it constantly. This allows us to fine-tune the depth of anaesthesia based on what’s happening in the procedure and how your pet is responding.

Step 4: Monitoring Throughout

This is where our dedicated veterinary nurse stays focused for the entire duration of your pet’s procedure. A dedicated veterinary nurse monitors your pet’s vital signs continuously using specialised equipment to track:

 

Monitoring vital parameters during anaesthesia is essential to ensure the safety and stability of the pet throughout the procedure. Key indicators such as heart rate and rhythm help detect early cardiac changes, while blood pressure ensures that vital organs are receiving adequate blood flow. Oxygen levels (SpO2) confirm that the blood is properly oxygenated, and breathing rate helps monitor for any signs of respiratory depression. Additionally, body temperature is closely observed because pets can lose heat quickly under anaesthesia, and anaesthetic depth is carefully adjusted to ensure the pet is neither too lightly nor too deeply anaesthetised.

Key Points:

    • Heart Rate and Rhythm
      Detects cardiac changes early
    • Blood Pressure
      Ensures organs receive enough blood
  • Oxygen Levels (SpO2)
    Confirms proper oxygen supply in blood
  • Breathing Rate
    Monitors respiratory depression
  • Body Temperature
    Prevents heat loss during anaesthesia
  • Anaesthetic Depth
    Ensures safe and appropriate sedation level

 

This level of continuous monitoring means we can respond quickly to even small changes before they become problems. Modern veterinary medicine makes this possible with equipment that was once only found in human hospitals.

Temperature management deserves a special mention. Pets lose body heat rapidly under anaesthesia. We use warming mats and heated air blankets throughout the procedure to keep your pet safe and stable. Without active warming, a pet’s core temperature can drop significantly, especially if large areas of the body are clipped or body cavities are opened.

Higher-Risk Patients: Older Pets, Flat-Faced Breeds, and Pets with Health Conditions

Age alone is not a reason to avoid anaesthesia. A senior dog or older cat can absolutely undergo a procedure safely, provided the protocol is tailored to your pet’s individual needs.

Patients who require modified protocols include:

  • Older pets: Their organ function may be slower, requiring lower doses and more careful monitoring of vital signs.
  • Brachycephalic breeds (flat-faced dogs and cats like French Bulldogs, Pugs, British Shorthairs): These breeds have narrower airways, making intubation and airway management more complex. Research confirms that brachycephalic breeds need extra airway care under anaesthesia, and vets should use breed information to have transparent discussions with owners before the procedure. 
  • Obese pets: Extra body weight affects drug distribution and increases the risk of breathing difficulties under anaesthesia.
  • Pets with pre-existing conditions: Heart disease, diabetes, epilepsy, and other conditions all change how we approach the anaesthetic protocol.

The key point here is that we adjust. Every pet receives a plan tailored to your pet’s specific needs rather than a one-size-fits-all approach. Research published in 2024 confirms that careful patient evaluation, drug selection, and monitoring are all associated with reduced anaesthetic mortality in dogs and cats. 

What puts a pet at greater risk is when owners don’t share important health information before the procedure. If you know your pet has a heart murmur, has had a reaction to medication, or has been unwell recently, please tell us. We’re not going to cancel the surgery for no reason. We’re going to make it safer.

Pet Dental Procedures and Anaesthesia: Why We Can’t Skip It

Pet dental work is one of the most common reasons dogs and cats come in for a general anaesthetic at our Melbourne clinic. We know many pet owners wonder why a clean or extraction can’t be done while the pet is awake.

Here’s why: a pet dental procedure involves probing below the gum line, using vibrating instruments, and sometimes drilling or extracting teeth. It’s uncomfortable, disorienting, and impossible to perform safely on a moving animal. Anaesthesia ensures your pet feels nothing, stays completely still, and is protected from inhaling water and debris.

The breathing tube placed during anaesthesia also keeps their airway protected and allows us to provide oxygen throughout the procedure, which is especially important during longer dental work.

Recovery: The First Hours After Anaesthesia

Once the procedure is done, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your pet begins to wake up. This doesn’t happen instantly, and it shouldn’t. Here’s what to expect:

At the clinic:

  • Your pet is moved to a warm, quiet recovery area
  • A veterinary nurse monitors your pet until they are awake, stable, and able to swallow
  • Temperature is closely monitored and maintained
  • Pain relief is given as needed before any discomfort sets in

What to expect when your pet comes home:

  • Grogginess and uncoordinated movement for several hours
  • Sleeping more than usual for the first 24 hours
  • Reduced appetite (offer small amounts of food and water gradually)
  • Some whimpering or vocalisation, which can be a normal response to the anaesthetic drugs

Most pets bounce back quickly. Within 24 to 48 hours, the majority of dogs and cats are back to their normal selves, especially after routine procedures.

Signs your pet needs attention: Call your vet immediately if you notice:

  • Pale, white, or blue gums
  • Laboured or noisy breathing
  • Repeated vomiting
  • Unable to stand or walk after several hours at home
  • Extreme lethargy that isn’t improving
  • Swelling, bleeding, or discharge at the surgical site

It’s also worth checking whether your pet insurance policies cover surgical procedures, anaesthesia, and post-operative care. Many do, so it’s a good idea to contact your provider before the procedure.

Common Questions to Ask Before Your Pet’s Procedure

Keysborough pet owners should feel completely comfortable asking questions before handing their pet over for surgery. Here are some good ones to start with:

  • What pre-anaesthetic blood tests do you recommend for my pet?
  • Who will monitor my pet during the procedure, and what equipment is used?
  • How will you manage my pet’s body temperature during the procedure?
  • What pain relief will my pet receive, and when?
  • What is the recovery protocol at the clinic, and what should I watch for at home?
  • When can I call to check in on my pet during the procedure?

No question is too small. The team at Keysvet is happy to answer every single one of them before the day.

Quick Reference: What Happens When Your Pet Goes Under Anaesthesia

The anaesthesia process in pets involves several carefully managed stages to ensure safety and comfort. It begins with a pre-assessment, including blood tests, a physical exam, and a review of the pet’s health history. Pre-medication is then given to provide calming and pain relief. During induction, an IV agent is used to bring the pet into unconsciousness, followed by intubation where a breathing tube is placed to protect the airway and deliver anaesthetic gas. Maintenance involves adjusting inhaled anaesthesia to keep the correct depth, while continuous monitoring tracks all vital signs. Finally, during recovery, the pet is kept in a warm environment under close observation until it gradually regains consciousness.

Book In and Talk to Us Before the Day

If your dog or cat has a procedure coming up and you want to know your pet is safe every step of the way, please give us a call before the day. The team at Keysvet, your trusted Keysborough veterinary practice, is happy to walk you through every part of the process.

Whether it’s desexing surgery, a dental procedure, or a more complex orthopaedic operation, we tailor every anaesthetic plan to ensure your pet receives the safest, most comfortable care possible. Give us a call and let’s make sure you feel confident and prepared before you bring your pet in.

Learn more about our surgical services | Pre-anaesthetic blood testing | Desexing your dog or cat

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Is pet anaesthesia safe? 

Yes, when carried out by a trained veterinary team with proper monitoring equipment. Research shows that careful patient evaluation and monitoring are directly associated with better anaesthetic outcomes. The risk is very low for healthy pets undergoing planned procedures.

Do pets need blood tests before anaesthesia? 

We also recommend pre-anaesthetic blood tests for all pets, especially older animals or those with any known health condition. These tests check organ function so we can tailor the anaesthetic protocol to your individual pet.

What does a veterinary nurse do during surgery? 

A dedicated veterinary nurse stays with your pet throughout the entire procedure, continuously monitoring oxygen levels, heart rate, blood pressure, temperature, and anaesthetic depth using specialised equipment.

How long does it take for a pet to wake up after anaesthesia? 

Most pets are awake within an hour of the gas being turned off, but may remain groggy for several hours. Pets bounce back quickly after routine procedures, with most being back to normal within 24 to 48 hours.

Can older pets safely go under anaesthesia? 

Yes. Older pets can safely undergo anaesthesia when the protocol is carefully tailored to your pet’s health status. Pre-anaesthetic blood work and a thorough physical assessment are especially important in senior dogs and cats.

Tick Paralysis in Dogs and Cats: What Keysborough Pet Owners Must Know Before Ticks This Summer

Tick paralysis is one of the most serious veterinary emergencies in Australia, and it moves fast. One day your pet seems a little off. The next, they cannot stand. Within 24 to 48 hours, they could be in respiratory distress. That is how quickly this condition escalates, and that is exactly why every pet owner in Keysborough needs to understand it before the warmer months kick in.

Here in Melbourne, our pets are not living in typical tick country. But that does not mean they are safe. Paralysis ticks hitch rides on camping gear, on clothing, and on pets returning from holidays along the coast. They travel. And when they land on your dog or cat, the clock starts ticking.

This guide covers everything: what a paralysis tick looks like, how the toxin works, what symptoms to watch for in dogs and cats, what to do if you find one, and how tick treatment and paralysis tick prevention can keep your pet safe this season.

What Is a Paralysis Tick and Where Do They Come From?

The paralysis tick, scientifically known as Ixodes holocyclus, is the most dangerous of all species of ticks found in Australia. It is distributed along the east coast of Australia, where it infests dogs, cats, and a wide range of other animals, predominantly during spring and early summer. 

In Victoria, paralysis ticks are found along the coast as far south as Bairnsdale and Sale. However, they can find their way into camping equipment and clothing and hitch a ride into suburban Melbourne. That means pets right here in Keysborough, Dandenong, Springvale, and Noble Park are not automatically in the clear, especially if they have been on a road trip, a camping holiday, or even visited a friend’s property near the coast.

How to tell a paralysis tick apart from other ticks:

1. Size: Unfed, they are about the size of an apple seed. Once engorged with blood, they can grow to the size of your little fingernail.

2. Colour: A blue-grey colour when engorged, which is one of the more recognisable features.

3. Shape: Oval body, eight legs, with a distinctive hard shield behind the head.

4. Location on the pet: Research from the University of Queensland found the paralysis tick was located on the head, neck, or ears in 73% of dog patients and 63% of cats.

When are they most active?

According to PetSure data from the last five years, tick paralysis cases increase from August, peaking in October, November, and December, before decreasing by February. This is your tick season window: late winter through to early autumn. That said, tick paralysis can occur year-round in tick-prone areas, so do not let your guard down entirely.

How Tick Paralysis Works: What the Toxin Does to Your Pet

Understanding how the tick toxin works helps explain why time matters so much.

When a paralysis tick attaches to your pet’s skin and begins to feed, it injects a neurotoxin called holocyclotoxin through its saliva. The toxin is produced by the tick’s salivary gland approximately 72 hours following attachment. Clinical signs in dogs and cats include altered voice, laboured breathing, and ascending flaccid paralysis, eventually leading to respiratory failure and death.

In plain terms: the longer a tick feeds, the more toxin floods your pet’s system. The neuromuscular signals between the brain and the muscles get disrupted. First the back legs go. Then the front legs. Then the muscles that control breathing. Once it reaches that point, it is a life-threatening emergency.

Why are smaller pets more vulnerable?

A smaller body means a higher concentration of toxin relative to body weight. Small dogs and cats can deteriorate much faster than large breeds, which is why cat owners especially need to be vigilant. Cats often mask their symptoms until they are quite unwell.

Research analysing nearly 15,000 cases of tick paralysis from 1999 to 2020 found that 9% were fatal. That is not a small number. And according to the University of Queensland, an average tick season still means 4,000 to 5,000 vet visits in eastern Australia are tick-related, with 1 in 10 of those pets dying from the toxin or being euthanised because they cannot be saved.

Symptoms of Tick Paralysis: A Progression Guide

One of the most important things to know about tick paralysis in pets is how it progresses. The symptoms of tick paralysis follow a recognisable pattern, and catching it early makes a real difference to the outcome.

Early Signs (12 to 24 Hours)

Change in bark or meow, often sounding hoarse or weaker than normal

Wobbling or unsteadiness in the hind legs

Lethargy and reluctance to move

Retching or vomiting

Mid-Stage Signs

Inability to stand or get up without help

Laboured or rapid breathing

Gagging, drooling, or difficulty swallowing

Loss of appetite

Advanced Stage (Life-Threatening Emergency)

Complete paralysis of all four limbs

Severe respiratory distress

Inability to blink or close the eyes fully

Blue-tinged gums, indicating lack of oxygen

What about ticks on cats? Cats often present differently. They may be quieter or more withdrawn than usual, and their owners can mistake early symptoms for general illness. Cats are also harder to check thoroughly given their coats and temperament. If your cat is hiding, off their food, or breathing oddly, do not wait to see if they come good.

The key rule: do not wait to see if symptoms resolve on their own. They will not. This is a condition that gets worse, not better, without treatment.

If your pet is showing any of the signs above, call Keysvet immediately on (03) 9798 7274. Do not drive to us without calling first so we can prepare.

What to Do If You Find a Tick on Your Pet

Finding a tick on your pet is frightening, but staying calm and acting quickly gives your pet the best chance.

Step-by-step guide for removing the tick:

Use the right tool. A tick hook (also called a tick twister) or fine-tipped tweezers are the best options. These are available from most pet shops.

Grasp as close to the skin as possible. Get right down to where the tick attaches at the pet’s skin, not around the body of the tick.

Pull upward slowly and steadily. Do not twist, jerk, or squeeze the body of the tick.

Do not use petroleum jelly, nail polish, or heat. These methods can cause the tick to inject more toxin.

Place the tick in a sealed container and bring it to the vet for identification if possible.

Call us straight away, even if your pet seems perfectly fine after the tick is removed.

This last point matters. Even after the tick has been removed, the toxin already injected continues to act. Clinical signs can actually worsen in the hours after removal, which is why your vet still needs to assess your pet even when they appear okay.

Keep your pet calm and restrict their activity. Exercise increases blood flow, which speeds up how quickly the toxin spreads through the body.

Tick Paralysis Treatment at the Vet

When a pet arrives at Keysvet suffering from tick paralysis, the first priority is stabilisation. Treatment typically involves the following:

Treatment for tick paralysis focuses on neutralising the toxin and supporting recovery. Tick antiserum stops further toxin progression, while sedation reduces stress and toxin spread. Oxygen therapy aids breathing if needed, and IV fluids maintain hydration and organ function. Hospitalisation ensures close monitoring, and a full body search is essential to remove any additional ticks

It is important to understand that the tick antiserum does not reverse damage already done. The antitoxin only binds to free toxin in the blood stream; it does nothing to the toxin that has already bound. This means that even after the tick antitoxin has been given, signs of tick paralysis can get worse. This is exactly why early veterinary care is so important: the less toxin that has bound, the better the outcome.

Vets and nurses will also check your pet’s ability to swallow before offering food or water, as aspiration (inhaling fluid into the lungs) is a real risk in paralysis cases and can lead to life-threatening pneumonia.

Recovery from tick paralysis varies. Mild cases may stabilise within a day or two. More severe cases can require several days of hospitalisation. The days after the tick is removed are often the most critical period.

Tick Prevention: The Best Strategy for Keysborough Pet Owners

Prevention is always the better option. The right tick prevention product, used correctly, can stop the paralysis tick from ever becoming a problem in the first place.

Paralysis tick prevention options for dogs and cats:

1. Tick Antiserum: Given as needed; neutralises toxin, does not prevent ticks

2. Sedation: As required; does not cover ticks

3. Oxygen Therapy: As needed; does not cover ticks

4. IV Fluids: Continuous during care; does not cover ticks

5. Hospitalisation: Until recovery; does not cover ticks

6. Full Body Search: Immediate and repeat checks; removes existing ticks

Important note: not all flea and worm preventatives protect against paralysis ticks. Standard flea treatments are a separate conversation from tick prevention and treatment. Always check with your vet that your current product covers paralysis ticks specifically. Research has shown that the introduction of new-generation tick preventatives has led to an estimated 54.8% reduction in dog tick paralysis cases and a 44% reduction in cat tick paralysis cases. The products available today are genuinely effective, and they are making a measurable difference to tick paralysis cases across eastern Australia.

Daily tick searches: how to do it properly

Even if your pet is on a tick prevention product, daily tick searches are still recommended during tick season, especially after bush walks or travel to coastal areas. Searching for ticks should be part of your routine from late winter onwards.

1. Run your fingers slowly through the coat, pressing gently to feel for any lumps or bumps.

2. Pay extra attention to the head, neck, ears, and face, as this is where ticks are most commonly found.

3. Check between toes, in skin folds, and around the groin and armpits.

4. A fine-toothed comb can help part the coat for a more thorough check your pet.

Other tips to protect your pet:

1. Keep dogs on leads in bushy areas and stick to defined paths.

2. Avoid long grass and leaf litter where ticks like to wait for a host.

3. If you are travelling to tick-endemic areas along the east coast, speak to your vet about additional precautions before you go.

4. Talk to us about whether year-round protection is appropriate for your pet’s lifestyle.

Tick prevention is not a one-size-fits-all conversation, and it deserves a separate discussion from your routine flea and worm prevention. Bring it up at your next wellness visit, or call us to ask about the best tick prevention product for your pet.

Keep your pet safe this summer. 

Call Keysvet on (03) 9798 7274 to discuss the right tick preventatives for your dog or cat. Our team is here to help Melbourne pet owners and pet owners alike make informed decisions before tick season hits.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. My pet lives mostly indoors in Keysborough. Do they still need tick prevention? 

Yes. Ticks can be brought inside on clothing or other pets, and even dogs with minimal outdoor exposure can be at risk. Ticks hitchhike on people and animals returning from tick-prone areas, so indoor pets are not entirely protected.

2. How do I know if the tick I found on my dog is a paralysis tick? 

Look for a blue-grey colour on an engorged tick, especially if it is attached to the head, neck, or ears. Bring the tick to your local vet in a sealed container and they can confirm the species. When in doubt, treat every tick as potentially dangerous and seek veterinary advice immediately.

3. What should I do while driving my pet to the emergency vet? 

Keep your pet as calm and still as possible. Do not give them food or water, as swallowing difficulties are common with tick paralysis. Keep them cool, restrict movement, and call ahead so we are ready when you arrive.

4. Can tick paralysis come back after treatment? 

Recovery from tick paralysis is usually complete once all ticks are removed and the toxin clears. However, your pet will need monitoring at home for a few days after the tick has been removed, as symptoms can continue to progress even after treatment begins.

5. Is tick prevention different from my pet’s regular flea and worm treatment? 

Often, yes. Many standard flea and worm products do not cover paralysis ticks. Ask your vet specifically about tick preventatives, and do not assume your current product provides full tick protection.